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Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Television: Brazilian Black-Bean Stew with Pork and Beef

  • Christina Zeiders

Are you on the hunt for a hearty stew? The chefs at Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Television have tested and loved this slow-cooked Brazilian Black-Bean Stew with Pork and Beef. Here’s what they have to say:

During a visit to São Paulo, we learned that there are as many versions of Brazilian feijoada as there are cooks who make it, but one thing is constant: It is hearty, soulful fare. Feijoada can be an elaborate celebratory meal made with a dozen or more cuts of pork and beef, each removed from the pot and served individually, buffet-style, along with the stewed beans. It also can be a basic, work day stew simply ladled into bowls.

Ours is more like the latter: a streamlined serve-from-the-pot version, but with rich, slow-cooked flavor. We do, however, skip the hard-to-source meats, such as Brazilian beef jerky and smoked pork ribs, that are included in traditional feijoada. Instead, we use cuts that are easy to find at the supermarket, including bone-in beef short ribs and smoked ham hock, collagen-rich cuts that lend the broth flavor and body.

The addition of cachaça, a Brazilian spirit distilled from sugar cane, is a unique touch from Francisco Gameleira, chef at A Figueira Rubaiyat restaurant in São Paulo. We also borrowed his idea to include a little orange juice; these liquids help lift the heftiness with a bit of bright sweetness.

Feijoada is commonly served with orange slices or wedges along with “vinagrete,” a salsa-like mixture of chopped tomatoes, onion and herb—both bring welcome color and freshness. Serve the stew with rice and, for a typical Brazilian meal, with sautéed collard greens and farofa, or toasted cassava flour.

Don’t bother soaking the beans. Whereas most dried beans need to be soaked prior to cooking so they hydrate evenly and fully tenderize, black beans need only to be rinsed before they’re added to the pot. Also, don’t add any salt to the pot except with the aromatics. The bacon, ham hock and sausages are all well seasoned cuts that lend salinity to the broth, so it’s best to wait to the end to see if additional salt is needed.

Start to finish: 4¼ hours (40 minutes active); Serves 8-10

Ingredients:

  • 12 ounces thick-cut bacon, chopped
  • 3 medium celery stalks, chopped
  • 2 medium yellow onions, chopped, divided
  • 8 medium garlic cloves, chopped
  • 1 bunch cilantro, stems minced, leaves roughly chopped, reserved separately
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin
  • Kosher salt and ground black pepper
  • ¼ cup cachaça (see headnote) or white rum
  • ¼ cup orange juice, plus wedges to serve
  • 1 pound dried black beans, rinsed
  • 1¼ pounds bone-in beef short ribs
  • 1 pound smoked ham hock
  • 1 pound linguiça or chorizo sausage links
  • 1 pound ripe tomatoes, cored and chopped

In a large Dutch oven over medium-high, cook the bacon, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the celery, 1 onion, the garlic, cilantro stems, bay, cumin and ½ teaspoon pepper. Reduce to medium and cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are translucent, 10 to 15 minutes.

Add the cachaça and orange juice; scrape up any browned bits. Stir in the beans and 3½ quarts water, then bring to a boil over high. Add the short ribs and ham hock; stir to combine. Reduce to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 2 hours; skim off and discard any scum that rises to the surface during simmering.

Add the linguiça and cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until the beans are fully tender and the meat from the short ribs and ham hock is falling off the bones, about 1½ hours.

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, stir together the tomatoes, the remaining 1 onion, the cilantro leaves and ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

When the beans and meats are done, remove the pot from the heat. Using tongs, transfer the short ribs, ham hock and sausages to a large plate; let cool slightly. Remove and discard the bay. Cut the sausages into pieces of the desired size and return them to the pot. Using your fingers, shred the meat from the ribs and hock into bite-size pieces, discarding the skin, bone and gristle; stir the meat into the pot. Taste and season with salt and pepper.

Serve the feijoada with the tomato salsa and orange wedges alongside.

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